ABSTRACT

BJY-PeptaLift-1, independently developed by Korean biomaterials company BJY Inc., is a clean-label peptide ingredient produced using the company’s microbial fermentation platform, PMF (Peptide Multimer Fermentation).

Based on a mechanism that regulates the formation of the SNARE complex, which is involved in neurotransmission, this novel biomaterial takes a functional approach to reducing wrinkle formation associated with facial muscle contraction.

This article examines the anti-wrinkle efficacy and safety of BJY-PeptaLift-1, as well as its differentiation from conventional cosmetic peptide ingredients, focusing on the results of in vitro cell studies and human application studies.

INTRODUCTION

Skin aging is caused by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle habits, environmental stress, and physiological changes. In particular, the eye area is one of the most prominent areas where signs of aging appear early due to its structural characteristics and repeated facial muscle movements.

Traditionally, anti-aging cosmetic ingredients have been developed primarily to improve skin hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and provide antioxidant benefits. Recently, however, “Botox-like” bioactive peptides that regulate pathways associated with facial muscle contraction and neural signal transmission—underlying causes of crow’s feet—have emerged as an innovative next-generation technology in the market.

Based on its proprietary PMF (Peptide Multimer Fermentation) platform, BJY Inc. developed BJY-PeptaLift-1, a novel high-performance peptide that competitively inhibits the formation of the SNARE protein complex.

Unlike conventional Botox-like peptides such as Argireline®, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, and Syn®-Ake, which are derived from chemical synthesis, BJY-PeptaLift-1 can be produced using a highly efficient fermentation process. This differentiates the ingredient by enabling it to address clean-label requirements, long-term safety considerations, and the evolving global regulatory environment.

Based on this technological and market background, BJY-PeptaLift-1 has demonstrated anti-wrinkle efficacy and clinical safety through in vitro and human application studies. Its listing in the ICID and potential for global market expansion also indicate its applicability in the K-beauty and global anti-aging markets.

Figure 1. Induction of SNARE complex formation by SNAP-25, Syntaxin 1a, and VAMP-2

RESULTS

1. Inhibition of SNARE Complex Formation

SNARE complex formation is directly involved in neurotransmitter release and muscle contraction. Inhibiting the formation of this complex may suppress the release of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter responsible for inducing muscle contraction, thereby potentially helping reduce wrinkle formation caused by facial muscle movements.

Accordingly, an in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the potential of BJY-PeptaLift-1 to help prevent wrinkles associated with facial muscle contraction.

When three proteins—SNAP-25, Syntaxin 1a, and VAMP-2—were combined to induce SNARE complex formation, the monomeric protein bands decreased and new high-molecular-weight complex bands appeared, confirming successful complex formation.

A subsequent FRET-based membrane fusion assay showed that BJY-PeptaLift-1 achieved a 32.32% inhibition of membrane fusion compared with the untreated control.

2. No Cytotoxicity in HaCaT Cells at Concentrations Up to 500 ppm

The cytotoxicity of BJY-PeptaLift-1 in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) was evaluated using a WST-1 assay.

After the cells were treated with BJY-PeptaLift-1 for 24 hours at concentrations ranging from 0 to 500 ppm, cell viability was measured. At concentrations of 25, 50, 125, 250, and 500 ppm, cell viability was 99.25%, 96.12%, 96.10%, 93.20%, and 91.45%, respectively.

As no statistically significant decrease was observed (P > 0.05), BJY-PeptaLift-1 was evaluated as showing no cytotoxicity under the tested conditions.

Figure 2. Cell viability of human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) following treatment with BJY-PeptaLift-1

3. No Skin Irritation Observed in the Skin Patch Test

To assess the safety of BJY-PeptaLift-1 when applied to the skin, a primary skin irritation patch test was conducted by a human application testing institution.

A total of 32 participants aged 30 to 69 took part in the study. The test material was applied under a patch for 24 hours, and skin irritation was evaluated by a dermatologist at 30 minutes, 24 hours, and 48 hours after patch removal, according to the criteria of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG).

No irritation was observed at any of the evaluation points. The mean skin reaction score was 0.00, and BJY-PeptaLift-1 was therefore classified as non-irritating according to the evaluation criteria.

4. Improvement in Crow’s Feet Wrinkles in a Human Application Study

A human application study was conducted to evaluate the effects of BJY-PeptaLift-1 on crow’s feet.

A total of 20 participants applied 300 ppm BJY-PeptaLift-1 to the right side of the face twice daily, morning and evening after cleansing, for four weeks. Crow’s feet were evaluated using ANTERA 3D, with the Wrinkles small parameter used to analyze changes in skin wrinkles.

For comparison, 300 ppm Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (SNAP-8) and 0.5% retinol were evaluated under the same conditions in 21 and 22 participants, respectively.

After four weeks, the Wrinkles small value in the 300 ppm BJY-PeptaLift-1 group decreased from 13.11 to 11.60, representing a statistically significant 11.53% reduction (p < 0.01).

The 0.5% retinol group showed a 13.06% improvement, while the 300 ppm SNAP-8 group showed an 8.14% improvement.

These findings indicate that BJY-PeptaLift-1 showed a reduction in Wrinkles small comparable to that observed with 0.5% retinol under the same study conditions and demonstrated greater wrinkle improvement than SNAP-8 at the same concentration.

No adverse reactions related to allergic contact dermatitis or irritant contact dermatitis were observed by the investigators following application of the test material. Participant questionnaires also identified no notable adverse skin reactions.

CONCLUSION

The study confirmed that BJY-PeptaLift-1 inhibits SNARE complex formation. It also showed no cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes at concentrations up to 500 ppm and caused no skin irritation in the clinical patch test, supporting its safety under the tested conditions.

In the human application study, BJY-PeptaLift-1 demonstrated competitive wrinkle-improving efficacy compared with a conventional Botox-like peptide and retinol, suggesting its potential as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient that works by modulating neurotransmission associated with muscle contraction.

The study was conducted using a single-site application design, however, and the article notes that further validation using a randomized, bilateral comparative study design is needed.